TRAVEL: AUSTIN, TX
The Live Music Capital of the World
By George Stewart
What makes Austin remarkable is that “people check their attitudes at the door.” Traveling to Austin, you will find people with their arms extended, wanting to welcome you. It is an “Austin-tatious” attitude, that makes you want to come back, and many wind up staying. As a result, Austin has seen a surge of population over the last ten years. The traffic has become a nightmare, and housing has gone through the roof. The weather is still enjoyable most times of the year, except mid to late summer.
Sixth Street has also changed over the last ten years. More of the original club settlers have moved on or out, and it is now like Bourbon Street in New Orleans. Sixth Street is one of seven music districts in Austin, and the granddaddy of them all. Although Sixth Street has transitioned into a tourist and conference hot spot, music in Austin has never been bigger. Austin has nearly 200 music venues and over 1,900 area recording artists. There are more than 12,000 jobs in the Austin Music Industry that contributes $600 million to the economy, and over $11 million in tax revenue.
Austin simply put is the “Live Music Capital of the World.” Over the next year, Austin’s crown jewels Antone’s and Austin City Limits, will be celebrating their 35th anniversaries. Austin is the home of music legends Asleep at the Wheel, Willie Nelson, Dixie Chicks, Jimmie Vaughan, and the late Stevie Ray Vaughan. Current recording artists from Austin include Spoon, Patty Griffin and other celebrities like Lance Armstrong and Andy Roddick.
BONUS: INSIDE AUSTIN CITY LIMITS COMING IN OUR MAY ISSUE
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Austin is not only music; it is beautiful, hilly (Texas Hill Country), has water (Barton Springs, Lake Austin) and culture. The Frost Bank is an extraordinary glass topped building, shaped like a nose hair clipper, and highlights a growing downtown skyline.
DAY ONE
One of the greatest times of the year to see Austin is during South by Southwest. The South by Southwest Music Festival is in its 24th year, and features nearly 2,000 acts at over 80 venues in downtown Austin for five days every March, while nearby University of Texas is on their spring break.
The first leg out of Detroit to Austin was an ordinary flight. A stop over at Chicago’s Midway airport, and there is a distinct difference in the passengers who collect in the boarding area. Once on the aerial chariot you knew, we were not heading to Kansas. Flight attendants struggle with instrument cases in overhead compartments for an on time departure. Dread locks, shaved heads, bohemian chic, black leather, ponchos, I was clearly heading to a town called “Cool”.
Nearing our destination, I enter into a brief conversation with the person next to me who is a transplanted resident of Austin. Most residents will tell you that Austin is different from “every” other city in the red state of Texas. The people are congenial, the music is greater and they always recommend Breakfast Tacos. There is a genuine fire in Austin for huevos, filled with a variety of food items and blanketed by a flour tortilla. He recommends Joe’s (Bakery & Coffee Shop) with an “E”, because there is a Jo’s that has exceptionally tasty breakfast tacos too. The passenger in front of us gives the “I could not help over hearing” tip on Juan in a Million. Another chimes in with El Chilito, and the suggestions keep coming as we deplane. I had more recommendations than I could handle, even if I ate breakfast tacos for breakfast, lunch and dinner during my visit, “they’re terrific at 2 am” helps another passenger.
On the ground in Austin, and after a 20 minute taxi ride, I set out to the streets for a casual stroll on Sixth Street. Step outside the hotel and you are immediately greeted with “live” music. I walk past early music revelers, lined up in front of several clubs hosting pre-SXSW parties. It was 11 o’clock pm on a Tuesday, Austin is already bustling with more energy than most towns on Saturday night. It is the calm before the storm. Pedi-cab drivers at each barricaded stop along Sixth Street. Austin’s finest take in the atmosphere of the evening, their horses and paddy wagons ready for the next few days on live music’s way.
11:00 pm
People on the streets come from varied age groups, and speak different languages during this international celebration of music. Austin boasts of having nearly 200 live music venues and many of them are on Sixth Street, laced with tattoo shops, essential t shirt shops, and pizza joints. There is an obsession with pizza on Sixth Street. You will find numerous pizza trailers and walk up pizza joints, my favorite Hoeks Death Metal Pizza. Really Death Metal Pizza!
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I take a stroll East from Trinity to Red River, then back again to be drawn in by the dominant bluesy rock sound pouring out of Nuno’s on 6th. Inside for a quick libation (Shiner of course), I meet 96 year old piano bluesman Pine Top Perkins, resting at his permanent altar inside the club. Perkins still can be caught playing a few songs on occasion at Nuno’s, but not on this night. Perkins makes his aided departure from the club, through couples that dance and swirl in the tight quarters. The band blows out The Doors, “Roadhouse Blues.”
1:00 am
In the back of the bar stands a hulking man in a black cowboy hat that covers his face, exposing only his signature mutton chops. It is Lemmy, yeah Lemmy Kilmister from Motorhead, taking in a drink and lots of attention. Lemmy is in town for the premiere of his new movie “Lemmy: The Movie”, and several performances with Motorhead at various venues in Austin.
2:00 am
Three hours on the ground in Austin; meet up with 2 legendary musicians of different mothers, take in the sights and sounds of Sixth Street and get some exercise along the way. Not a bad start.
This trip is not over yet, continue on to Day 2 and meet up with Cheap Trick, hang out with Austin's insiders and bang your head with Motorhead. This and much more. Click on links below . . . . . .
DAY 2 DAY 3
